Going to the Chapel

The chapel is flooded. The Cathedral is swamped.

Azure water laps at the knave and fish swim between the stone arches.

The Capillas de Marmol – Marble Chapels – on Lago General Carrera are a spectacular series of rock formations carved out by the wind and water over the ages.

To explore the chapels, cathedral and caves I have commandeered a small motorboat in Puerto Tranquilo – a sleepy lakeside settlement in the heart of Aysen, Patagonia.

Nestled on the shores of Chile’s largest lake, the town is a relaxing place to park the motorbike for a couple of days. Blue and turquoise rivers and lakes flow between snow-capped mountains and through deep glacial carved valleys.

The summer visitors have left and Puerto Tranquilo certainly lives up to its name. Even the brewery has run out of beer – and won’t be making more until the summer crowds return.

In the campground the chickens and dogs sidle up for company.

Our wake breaks the glassy blue lake and the splutter of the small motor cuts through the still misty morning.

As the sun burns away the lazy haze, snow sprinkled mountains pierce the low clouds.

Our captain pilots the boat close to the rocky shore. Boulders and craggy stone soon give way to the impressive and stunning marble caves - smooth hollowed portals to another world.

Like all impressive religious monuments it’s taken years of labour to construct the chapels, cathedral and caves. But instead of the hands of man, the elements have been at work for thousands of years.

Instead of light pouring through stained glass windows, the crystal blue water of the lake reflects the light and makes it dance against the colourfully smoothed marble.

The small boat pokes its nose into one of the caves. I reach out and touch the cool smooth marble wall. It’s peaceful and serene beneath the domed roof. The watery floor is clear enough to show the bedrock foundations.

Soon it’s time to motor back across the lake back to land. Puerto Tranquilo is still well … tranquilo.

And in the campground the chickens forage for scraps and the dogs look for a scratch.