A Fork in the Road

If you come to a fork in the road - take it.

My fork on the Carretera Austral arrives a few hours south of Puerto Tranquilo at the southern tip of Largo General Carrera.

The morning is warming up and the clouds floating silently away. Snow-capped peaks revealing themselves in the distance.

lago General Carrera

Ruta 7

The original plan is to leave Ruta 7 and turn west for the Argentinian border. But at the crossroads, I find I'm not ready to end my affair with the famous Chilean road.

There are rumours of enchanted lakes and magical rivers further south. But also of isolation and corrugation.

The decision not to turn left was right.

First to reveal themselves and vindicate my route is Lago Bertrand - or Blue Bertie - as I call him. The mountains ripple on the lake's surface and the sun shines brightly as I roll along the bank and into the small hamlet of Puerto Bertrand.

An "Elderly Woman Behind The Counter In A Small Town" sells me an apple, a tomato, a stick of hardened bread and a bottle of water. What more can a man with miles ahead in the wilderness need?

Puerto Bertrand is the where the wide and mighty Rio Baker begins it's turquoise meander and drains Lago General Carrera. The colour a sharp contrast against the arid Patagonian landscape.

I follow the Baker along the loose stone and dusty Caraterra Austral until it meets the Rio Neff at a series of waterfalls. The confluence churns the waters from turquoise to a milky green. The Nef's waters, loaded with mineral sediment carried from the glaciers Northern Ice Field, cause the dramatic effect.

confluencia-2

confluence

The trail of spilled and streaming milk leads me further south.

About 17km north of the town of Cochrane - my destination - I pass the junction for Paso Roballos which is my way into Argentina. There are no more roads crossing the border further south. I'll return to this point in the morning ... if I find fuel.

Earthworks on the road throw a bit more sand and rocks into my path but soon I descend into Cochrane with the Baker chasing the sinking sun to the west and the Pacific Ocean.

A kindly French couple feeds me on pasta and wine and I reflect on my extra day on the Carretera Austral.

The truly magical day - with some of the best riding during the epic journey - leaves me finally ready to say my farewells and slip into Argentina and join the Ruta 40.